5 Comments

I really enjoyed your view about the place I call home. The bit where you said about surf looking like something its not, is a great point. I run too and some days I feel so deflated by surfing that I crave a run, which I inevitably go on. Do you think that surfing is just something that you can do and not take too far, or would you need to replace it, as in this case with running?

Portugal isn't all crumbly cliffs and plantation trees, there are prettier sides to it all. The biggest upside to it all is the warmer climate. I really enjoyed your read. Cheers.

Expand full comment

This is great, and totally get where you’re coming from. For me it’s swimming, surfing and playing football. Over the years I’ve noticed my enthusiasm for each can wax and wane, and seems to depend upon rhythms I’m only just beginning to understand and appreciate.

Expand full comment
author

And of course I’ve totally avoided facing up to the middle-age capitulation factor!

Expand full comment

Was War Child not out there bamming all the surfer’s up…….or “that would be a waste of time” 🤣🤣🤣

Expand full comment

The senses of relief you get when that relationship changes from an addiction to just something you do and not define who you are is pretty dam good . I think it took me 8 or 9 years for that penny to drop

Expand full comment